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good post! i think juanola's perspective hits it for me – it takes owning a number of $20k-30k watches to figure out which $120k watch (or choose whichever prices you'd like) would actually prove to have that much value for you.

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May 23, 2023Liked by kingflum

Good post, very thought provoking and thorough as always! My grails are quite modest and in reach for the first time in my life. Obviously I’d love a VC overseas dual time but I’d ideally like to pay retail (who wouldn’t?) and I’ll have to play the long game for that, I’m not sure I could walk in and get one. There’s nothing in my wheelhouse at a more expensive price point at the moment. In the meantime I got a modern Milgauss last summer at retail which I love and had been looking for since… can’t even remember, probably since about 2010 or earlier. It means more to me than a platinum day date (and yes I’ve tried one on, it was a beast!) My other grails are a birth year speedy, birth year 5513, first gen Ingenieur, a 40mm Explorer II and weirdly a revived 2003/2004 Railmaster. I could of course forgo all of them for a VC. I could attempt to rationalise it but ultimately each of those watches has their own meaning to me, I like them enough to part with the cash to experience them, own them, enjoy them, and I don’t think I’ll lose (much) money on any of them in the process. My tastes will change and I accept that and will embrace that and I love love love love smaller more independent brands. That will definitely be my focus from here on. I went to WAW this year but while in Geneva went to Barton 7, AHCI, and the other little breakaway group at the Hotel Beau Rivage and feel I’m barely scratching the surface.

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That meaning you find in the more personal approach with independent watchmakers is an area which will probably resonate with many other indie enthusiasts... I do wonder if it’s just the inclusive nature of the interactions, rather than the vision of the maker... take Ondrej Berkus- he works well with others, his designs are interesting to some, and by his own admission he’s “sold out” until 2040. He doesn’t have any vision beyond just making cool stuff and so, unlike someone like Felipe Pikulik who has more of a vision in the traditional sense, he’s just a guy who makes stuff which might be cool. I have this debate with myself a lot too... no answers here, just more musings.

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Very interesting and something I've been thinking about alot. I don't buy watches for other people to enjoy. I also don't buy for value, but after value/value retention certainly makes the justification for spending the money easier. Living in Houston, and having relatively unknown, albeit somewhat expensive watches, I have no concerns about security. What I have discovered is that even more than the monetary value of the watch is the value of the relationships associated with the purchase. I gravitate towards small independent watch brands because I value the ability to meet the watchmaker, understand their vision and philosophy. Following their journey and knowing I'm wearing a part of that journey is exceptionally meaningful for me.

That said, I do like the Nautilus for 5k, even if I couldn't sell it. But I could give it to my kids when I die and they could sell it. Nothing like a loophole. 😂

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